Friday, September 25, 2009

Trogir, music courtesy of the 1970s

The drive to Trogir was beautiful, through mountains and along the coast. That meant serpentine roadways and hairpin turns, but oh so very beautiful.

Our hotel in Trogir was an apartment, complete with kitchen, living room, and two-toned peach walls. It was a very strange place, not really a hotel, and it didn't really have a reception desk. There was one extremely corpulent woman sitting in a tiny little room, and she spoke like this: "uhhhhhh the room uhhhhhhhh ees a uhhhhhhhh very nice uhhhhhhhhh room." Etc and etc until your mind starts to bleed. It took her long minutes to say a single sentence. At first I thought well, hell! She's speaking English, I sure can't speak Croatian as well as that. But then we noticed that it's just her style. Uhhhhhhh.

And our room was on the 3rd floor, but the elevator didn't work -- "the uhhhhhhhhhh technician uhhhhhhhhh has been uhhhhhhhhhhh called." We suspect he was either called a couple of years ago, or it's on the to-do list in a couple of years. No technician was imminent, that's for sure.

So we stayed out - the good thing about the hotel was that it's just a parking lot away from the little foot bridge into old Trogir, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It's cool, in that "look at the cobblestone streets and narrow alleys and churches and cafes" kind of way. It's very small, you can walk the whole thing in no time, which we did - several times. Much of it was really beautiful, like this bougainvillea TREE:

Old Trogir is on a little island; at one end is this gate, with the standard guardian Saint over the door, and at the other end is a castle.

The guy who used to live in this castle played a lot of cards. So they say.

In between is this enormous square, ringed by churches and museums, with cafes in the center.

And along the other side of the island, away from our hotel, is a line of restaurants. When it got dark, we ate at a little restaurant on the wide promenade, next to this really pretty steeple. I got mussels that were amazing, and Marc got fish soup, a whole fish, chunks of boiled potatoes with chard (which is the standard side dish everywhere), and a little crepe to finish.

After dinner we were walking around and heard this very loud music coming from the square. I thought it was prerecorded music, but when we got there, it turned out to be a 3-piece band. The lead singer sounded like an American, and the music was 1970s all the way. We've noticed that everywhere, the music is 1970s American music, so funny.

The next morning we pulled out for the drive to Cavtat. Post and pictures to come. Having a great time, wish I never had to go home.

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